July 22, 2005

Moro

Moro
Exmouth Market
London EC1
020 7833 8336

This is another restaurant that everyone's heard of, but which offers truly fantastic food, value, atmosphere and service - and again, is easier to get into than somehow everyone thinks. On bustling but relaxed Exmouth Market, it is famous for its Andalucian/Moorish/Morroccan food, a fantastic tribute to the amazing Arab/European crossover of Southern Spain and Northern Africa.

The food is extremely imaginative, subtle yet confident, and the menu constantly changes reflecting the seasons and the chefs' current preoccupations so you can go back many times and never be bored. When we went last week, we had fantastic starters of a sort of buffalo-milk cottage cheese, broad bean salad and crisp breadsticks, and superbly light calves brains sauted with crisp capers and served as a salad with gorgeous chunks of preserved lemon. Mains were equally stunning - perfect roasted chicken with lentils and chanterelle mushrooms, and a wood-roasted pork chop with crispy potatoes and piquillo peppers, which attracted the comment from the boy of being unusually succulent and flavorsome (so there you go). We had a good bottle of a Rioja that neither of us had tried beofre (Vina Amezola Crianza) which at £22 we found extremely good value, a praiseworthy wine in every respect.

It is hard-ish to get a table with a tablecloth, ie in the restaurant proper, on most days - but the trick here is that you can sit on the street at a metal table, or at the bar, and eat anything you want - which to me is a much more relaxed way to eat anyway if you aren't on a smart date. They also do a fantastic tapas selection, very reasonably priced, so if you just wanted a glass of manzanilla and some nibbles, this is definitely the place to go in the area. All aspects of a good restaurant are there - good decor, good service, etc - aspects that should be standard across any establishment but sadly are all too rare and therefore need to be praised.

The score:

Food: Very good. I would come back all the time (A). Always imaginative, precise and vibrant. Caters both to the adventurous and the more traditional eater.

Wine: Good, almost entirely Spanish, list - strong and reasonably priced (house wine £12.50, and upwards from there). Good by-the-glass selection and sherries, as you would expect.

Value: I think very good. Not the cheapest ever, but starters are £4.50-£6.50 and mains £13.50-17.50, which for the quality is extremely good. Portions are really generous too. If you are on a budget, go for two starters and you will probably be full, or eat tapas (£2-£3.50 a pop) with their great home-baked bread.

Atmosphere: Smart, if you want it to be, but relaxed, if you want that too. I.e., you will impress a date for sure, but if you're a sloucher like me you also fit in fine with the mostly Clerkenwell-ish, designer-scruffy, grown-up not show-offy crowd.

Veggie friendliness: OK. Tapas and starters are great for veggies. Fish is strong. Generally only one veggie main however.

Top tips: Ask to eat at the bar or at one of the outside tables. Eat tapas late at night with a glass of manzanilla and get full for a tenner.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home