August 26, 2005

Simpsons in the Strand, WC2

Simpson's-in-the-Strand Grand Divan
100 Strand, London, WC2R 0EW
Telephone: 020 7836 9112

I went to Simpsons-in-the-Strand recently with a very old friend. I believe it is famous for a “deadly sins breakfast” but I was there for dinner.

Started at the Knight’s bar, which was comfortable and very old school –so funky décor or srtipped bare wooden floors are out. The wine list wasn’t cheap, the house claret was £17 but we stuck to that all evening and two bottles went down nicely.

Moved to the restaurant. Again very old school, some people will love, some will hate. Had a man happily playing piano tunes, again would be for some, not others.

I think it’s probably a mistake to not order anything British or traditional. So we went for roast beef and roast lamb (and had we the space probably a bread and butter pudding).

Beef was a rib of beef, roasted nicely and properly rare to medium rare cuts. I forgot to ask for the beef’s provenance, it said Scottish and aged 28 days but not sure what breed or where exactly from. It came with good horse radish.

Now, I cheekily asked what happens with the rib of beef bones? It seems nothing. So I asked for one and we both got one (even though I was having lamb). And it was definitely the best bit, tasty, full of beefiness and the right amount of fat. I suggest you try the same.

The saddle of lamb was also tasty but it had already cooked to medium, medium well (it was probably resting too long in the warm trolleys). It was not tough, but pink would have been a touch juicier and more tender. I was happy enough and most people would be.
After my beef bone, and lamb I had cleaned up my plate, so they asked me if I wanted more?! So, I tucked in to another two slices of lamb. This just about made up for the steep prices.

It was very easy to chat away, the place was comfortable although some would say the atmosphere staid – I like old school some days.

Food: Good. I’d come back if I wanted a traditional roast but not if I was feeling poor and would be put off if I didn’t get my beef bone and extra helping treats.

Wine: Decent wine list, but expensive. House Claret, a decent 2002 Bordeaux was £17 the next one up was £23 and then it escalates.

Value: Not great. The roasts are about £20 but the pain is eased if the second or third helpings come and if you get to choose a beef bone. Starters were around the £10 mark but were things like smoked salmon. Again, I think pricey and definitely a bit off putting.

Atmosphere: Old school. Our service was good, but I noted possible confusion between waiters. My trick is generally to engage them and be nice, and I rarely have bad service. Quite a good place for a date in the old school tradition and you’ll be able to chat, but if you in your 20s you will feel young.

Veggie friendliness: ok with fish dishes and a couple of veggie choices, but obviously not a first choice for veggies.

Top tips: have a care for where you want to sit. Eg near piano or not. Don’t hesitate to ask for a beef bone or query about seconds.

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